鈥淵ou can cross the seven seas to follow your dream, but nothing compares to the feeling of coming home.鈥�
That鈥檚 the definition of success for Brenda Torres Mu帽oz, a Puerto Rican entrepreneur who found success more than 30 years ago with Crioll铆simo, her Puerto Rican restaurant in New Britain.
Now, 鈥渢he mother of Puerto Rican food,鈥� as she is known in the Barrio Latino in 黑料吃瓜网, has opened her first restaurant on the island and her third overall, with the intention of celebrating the virtues of Puerto Rican cuisine.
鈥淭he authentic flavor of Puerto Rico has been lost in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I don鈥檛 believe in brunch,鈥� Torres Mu帽oz said. 鈥淲hat I want, by returning to the island, is to bring back the authenticity and freshness of Puerto Rican food to the community.鈥�
The journey back to Puerto Rico has been a long one.
Her love for cooking was sparked by her parents, who owned a restaurant in for 28 years called El Restaurante de Todos.
The story goes that mayoketchup, a dipping sauce made by combining mayonnaise and a pur茅ed mixture of tomatoes, green peppers, onions, and vinegar, was invented at Brenda鈥檚 parents鈥� restaurant.
鈥淭hey made it for the first time, served with a plate of chicken chicharr贸n and tostones,鈥� Torres Mu帽oz said.
El Restaurante de Todos, along with other establishments, was forced to close its doors amidst the economic decline that took hold in Puerto Rico in the 1980s. The loss of their livelihood led her parents to move to 黑料吃瓜网 in 1986 to work as cooks in a business owned by friends.
The next year, Torres Mu帽oz left the island for the to join her parents.
Brenda delayed her arrival while trying to pursue her studies in Puerto Rico, but she said she ultimately did not have the necessary resources to stay.
Little did she know that she was on a journey that would lead her to be named 鈥渢he mother of Puerto Rican food鈥� in 黑料吃瓜网 鈥� and lead her back to Puerto Rico.
The first Crioll铆simo
Torres Mu帽oz had been in 黑料吃瓜网 for six months. One day, as she walked home along Arch Street in New Britain鈥檚 Barrio Latino, an idea came to her.
鈥淚 saw a great need for the authentic flavors of Puerto Rico. There were Puerto Ricans living there who had arrived before and hadn't eaten a proper Puerto Rican dish in over 30 years,鈥� the entrepreneur explained.
During her walk, she had noticed a small space, a Polish bakery, and she knew it was perfect. She let her father know that she wanted the space. They rented the space and started selling just sandwiches, because they didn鈥檛 have the funds to set up a commercial kitchen.
Brenda chose the name Crioll铆simo in honor of Puerto Rico鈥檚 true flavor. She incorporated a rooster and a Puerto Rican flag into the logo, inspired by the island roosters crowing at dawn.
She became known for her Puerto Rican-style sandwiches: ham, cheese and eggs; tripleta; pernil; conch; steak and lobster. Sometimes she remained open until 3 a.m., waiting for nearby bars to close so she could sell more.
Getting the products was difficult at first. She used a bread, similar to Puerto Rican 鈥渟obao,鈥� that was supplied by an Italian bakery that had been in the city for over a century. For seafood, she would travel to in search of the best.
Rice and roast pernil on Arch Street
Two years later, in 1988, they bought the building. They set up a dining area and a kitchen in a space of about 200 square feet, and Torres Mu帽oz introduced more elaborate Puerto Rican dishes.
鈥淲hen I started making arroz con gandules and roast pernil, people went crazy because it was so well done,鈥� Torres Mu帽oz said. Today, it remains her best-selling dish: arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas), roasted pernil (pork) and maduros (ripe plantains).
However, there are other favorites to try, such as white rice and beans, carne frita, pork ribs, roast chicken, stuffed mofongo and her favorites: the stews.
鈥淰eal stew, braised beef steak, beef stew, stewed chickpeas... For me, that鈥檚 a sacred part of Puerto Rican cuisine. It reminds me of my grandmother,鈥� Torres Mu帽oz said.
At Crioll铆simo, customers can order takeout or dine in the 50-seat dining room. Every day, over 70 locals, including Puerto Ricans and Latinos, wait in line for up to half an hour to place their orders.
鈥淪ome people tell me that if they don't stop at Crioll铆simo Restaurant in 黑料吃瓜网 to eat, they can鈥檛 head home because they鈥檒l feel like something鈥檚 missing,鈥� Torres Mu帽oz said.
When Crioll铆simo started, Torres Mu帽oz did all the cooking. Even though she is no longer in the kitchen, the restaurant continues to use the same recipes it has used for decades, which are based on what she learned from her mother.
鈥淏ack then, we鈥檇 start cooking at 6 a.m.,鈥� she said. 鈥淚 helped her with dishwashing, then we would switch, and so on all day long. I told my mom not to quit, even if we only made $100 a day.鈥�
Her current cook is Puerto Rican, and she specifies that everything is made fresh 鈥渙n the same day.鈥� The ingredients are a secret, but she did admit that they use a blend of two adobos: one white and one dark.
In 1992, she stopped selling sandwiches and began focusing solely on main courses.
An opportunity
Customers missed Brenda鈥檚 famous sandwiches and Puerto Rican coffee, and last year, a space across from Crioll铆simo became available. Brenda did not pass up the opportunity. That space became home to Crioll铆simo Sandwich Shop.
One of the reactions she often receives is: 鈥淏renda, I haven鈥檛 had a sandwich like this, from a , since I left the island 20 years ago.鈥�
She explained that it brings back childhood memories for customers because many of them do not have the resources to travel to Puerto Rico.
Soon, a fourth location will open on Arch Street, called Crioll铆simo Express, and will bacala铆tos, cheese empanadillas, meat pastelillos and alcapurrias,
The return
Last March, Torres Mu帽oz was on vacation in She noticed an empty storefront near the entrance to Buy茅 Beach.
鈥淲hat if we bring a Crioll铆simo to Puerto Rico?鈥� she thought.
It has been a few months since Torres Mu帽oz rented, set up, and opened the new space called Crioll铆simo Coffee Market.
In addition to breakfast, Crioll铆simo Coffee Market offers a daily lunch special and sells finger foods that people can take to the beach.
鈥淭his space is small, but it鈥檚 huge to me,鈥� she said. 鈥淚 am honored to bring a concept to the island with the authentic flavor of a 辫补苍补诲别谤铆补 de pueblo.
鈥淔or those who dream of returning, believe me, it can be done.鈥�
